Tackling clay soil
The old saying goes “the answer lies in the soil”, and the answer for most of us in Marden, is that our soil is Weald or Wealden clay.
Cold, sticky and heavy in the winter rains, it is almost impossible to dig, it sticks to our spades and we plod around with clods of it on our boots. Then there are a few short weeks in the spring when it becomes friable and we can work it, before the summer bakes it to a brick with deep cracks as the moisture dries out and we need a pick axe to make any impression on our beds and borders. Autumn brings a little respite as the rains start to soften it up before it soaks up enough rain to become heavy, sticky and unworkable once again.
Is it any wonder that the European School of Osteopathy is sited in Maidstone - I’ve been taking my bad back there for years.
However, it is not all bad news. Wealden clay is in fact very fertile, and Kent is famous as the Garden of England for its orchards, hops and celebrated gardens thanks to this rich soil. It is just a question of knowing how to make it workable both for the plants and for us gardeners. Here are a some tips from the RHS:
Avoid walking on the soil when it is wet as this will compact the soil and make even more difficult to work with.
Dig in autumn and early winter when relatively dry, - break up the soil to give better drainage and allow winter frosts to work on the clay and break it down.
Avoid early planting or sowing unless drainage can be improved by making raised beds or the ground dried and warmed in advance (for at least six weeks) by covering with cloches or clear polythene sheets.
Dig in plenty of bulky organic matter such as manure, compost or, ideally, composted bark, as this can make a noticeable improvement to the working properties of clay.
Apply organic mulches around trees, shrubs and other permanent plants as these will reduce summer cracking and help conserve moisture,
Adopt a no dig approach, by avoiding walking or working on the soil at all, but simply by applying layers of organic matter. As Charles Dowding, the English horticulturalist and author who has pioneered modern no dig and organic soil management, says “Clay soil is great for no dig: worms and other soil life improve its structure and there is good nutrient and moisture retention.” You can read about Sue Pennicott’s experience with the no dig approach when creating a new bed in her local garden.
Another aspect of making a success of gardening on clay is choosing the right plants. Happily, many plants thrive in clay soil so the range is wide and of course with the interventions above, the range becomes even wider. When planting, the bottom of the planting hole should be broken up before planting and the sides of the hole broken down using a garden fork. If not loosened, a sump may be formed where water can collect, resulting in probable plant death from waterlogging. It is also a good idea to delay planting on heavy clay soils until late winter or early spring, when there is less time for dormant roots to become waterlogged and cold.
With the right techniques, gardening on clay can be a pleasure not a pain in the neck (or pain in the back).